Greenland travel guide

This Greenland travel guide will help you navigate a country (well, technically an autonomous region of Denmark) where you can set aside certainties and embrace genuine remoteness. The further north you go the fewer the villages, and even then we’re talking a few elfin houses painted in primary colours, huddled together as if to keep warm. You lose the notion of time because in summer (the only time to visit) the days are infinite and the light unreal, with the pink hues one normally associates with dawn or dusk illuminating the icebergs at one o’clock in the morning. You’ll also lose the notion of space, as the mist gives the impression of floating; and the notion of scale, because without a tree, road or house to compare to you no longer know whether a rock is a big pebble located two yards from your feet, or a mountain on the horizon until an Arctic fox appears, and helps you recalibrate. On the pack ice, and on the glaciers, you come to understand how the indigenous Inuit people come to decline shades of whites: bluey white blue, gray white, white white, soft white, softer white, ice white, opaque white or translucent white. On boat trips see whales up close and marvel at the elegance of these massive mammals! Back on land, ski or dog sled around this beautiful, fragile land. Read more