Authentic Brazil

Salvador, Trancoso and Rio

Your journey begins in Salvador (full name is Sao Salvador de Bahia de Todos los Santos) Brazil's first capital, an almost African city marked by late Baroque gold, which fuses sub-Saharan and Portuguese cultures, combining music and beliefs. The Pelourinho district, interlaced with steep alleyways, winding streets and palm fronds, reveals the splendour of the vast houses which line up displaying their pink, blue or ochre facades. Here, in this town where Gilberto Gil and Caetano Veloso started out, the pace of life is dictated by the rhythm of the bossa nova. A flight to Trancoso, 435 miles south of Salvador. Over the space of a few years this former fishing village has become an Eden for the happy few and for travellers who appreciate its aesthetics. From Robert de Niro to Bill Gates, from Naomi Campbell to Scarlett Johansson: all fell in love with this typical Bahia village which, 30 years ago, existed without water or electricity. But you don't come here to be seen, you come here to get away from it all. A very boho atmosphere prevails in the Quadrado with its vivid facades; the leafy promenade that sets the pace for the village. While the village barely stirs at siesta time, the pace might accelerate in the late afternoon around an improvised football match in front of the small white church, erected by the Jesuits. Then the sound of the bossa nova rises and lamps start to illuminate the terraces: Trancoso is in full swing. But the real treasures of Trancoso are its beaches, emerald jewels at the foot of the ochre cliff, in the shadow of the jungle. Another flight, again to the south, and you reach Rio de Janeiro, to stay on the Santa Teresa side, where nobility and Portuguese administration settled when Rio became capital, leaving the people to the sea and the epidemics in what was once swampy land below. The ambassadors left the hill for Brasilia in 1960, leaving space for directors, composers, writers and painters: Santa Teresa has been an artists' haven for 15 years. We love its bohemian character, its terraces in the shade of banana trees, its houses with European splendour and its gourmet restaurants.

THE ACCOMMODATION

In Salvador - Villa Bahia. If the soul of Brazil is found in Salvador, the heart of Salvador beats at Villa Bahia. Nestled in Pelourinho, our favourite hotel here embodies Bahia's entire history. A haven of tranquillity, it's an ideal base for exploring the city. Sao Francisco, the city's most beautiful Baroque church, is within walking distance. In the house, created from two adjoining 17th-century pousadas, the 17 rooms recall the old markets and stopping points that led the Portuguese to Bahia. The colours are bright and there is period furniture. A wooden elevator painted and decorated with birds leads to the terrace. There are wooden loungers, whirlpool baths and panoramic views of El Salvador.

In Trancoso - Stay in an old fisherman's house, an alternative for independent and aesthetic travellers. Your private home offers comfort, luxury and independence. The furniture is made by local artisans and smaller items are signed by the best Brazilian or Colombian designers. The private patio is a haven of peace.

In Rio - A family home built in the 1920s, in the heart of an estate of several acres of rainforest, eucalyptus, and centuries-old mango trees. From the pool, a magnificent view of Rio, Sugarloaf Mountain and the bay. Sheltered from the hubbub of the city, experience a different Rio, away from the beach, away from modern-day hustle and bustle, another Rio altogether. Read more