From its characterful café culture to its lively milongas (dance halls), Buenos Aires thrums with life. Over three million people call the Argentine capital home, and it’s a place where days start late, and nights continue until the early hours. The birthplace of tango, Buenos Aires retains an old-world charm and cosmopolitan identity thanks to its elegant European architecture. In the ‘Paris of South America’, taking the well-trodden path is easy, but what if you want to uncover the city’s secret spots? For off-the-beaten-track treasures, read on for our favourite hidden gems in Buenos Aires…
1. Street art in Coghlan
2. Cementerio de la Chacarita
3. Eterna Cadencia
4. Secret gardens
5. El Zanjon tunnels
6. Las Cholas Parrilla
Street art in Coghlan
Buenos Aires is famous worldwide for its vibrant street art scene. While tourists flock to Palermo, La Boca and Barracas to see famous murals decorating the barrio (neighbourhood) buildings, head to historic Coghlan to explore a lesser-known hotspot for street art. A tiny residential neighbourhood nestled in the north of the city, Coghlan is the place to see some of the best urban art in Buenos Aires, minus the crowds. Stroll along sleepy tree-lined streets and admire its quirky, colourful art, including works by the revered artist Martin Ron. And the best part? There’s always new artwork popping up, so no two visits will be the same.
Cementerio de la Chacarita
Visiting a cemetery might not be high on your holiday wish list, but hear us out. You might’ve heard of Cementerio de la Recoleta, the resting place of Argentina’s famous first lady, Eva Perón. But there’s a second cemetery equally worthy of your attention: Cementerio de la Chacarita – one of our favourite hidden gems in Buenos Aires. Sprawling over 230 acres, this is the largest cemetery in the country (and perhaps the most beautiful). Ancient trees line row upon row of magnificent mausoleums, ranging from the grand to the crumbling and overgrown. There are also extensive catacombs, which, far from being macabre, are a haven of calm. Chacarita retains an intimate character, with local residents coming to pay their respects to the dead; there’s no jostling for space with tour groups or for photos of famous graves (although you’ll find the beloved tango singer Carlos Gardel’s grave here). After wandering the cemetery, visit neighbouring Bar Palacio and its photography museum for a browse and a bite to eat.
Image by David Axelbank/Gallery Stock
Eterna Cadencia
No list of hidden gems in Buenos Aires could fail to mention its bookshops. The Argentine capital has more places to purchase a book per capita than any other city in the world. Perhaps most famous is El Ateneo Grand Splendid, originally constructed as a theatre and now renowned as one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world. However, counting over one million visitors every year, El Ateneo is no secret. Fancy browsing for books away from the tourists? Enter Eterna Cadencia. This unassuming bookshop is tucked in Palermo, with over 40,000 titles lining the wood-panelled walls from floor to ceiling. Take your pick from classics and contemporaries before finding a comfy sofa, armchair or reading table to settle down on for the afternoon. Enjoy the eclectic yet stylish interior and the sunlit restaurant in its central courtyard.
Secret gardens
Take a break from the hustle and bustle of the city in one of Buenos Aires’ beautiful secret gardens. One of our favourite hidden gems in Buenos Aires is Palacio Noel, a Spanish-American neocolonial mansion built in the 1920s. Shaded by citrus and olive trees, the mansion’s gorgeous garden will transport you straight to Andalucia. There’s also a tiny Hispanic Art Museum to explore here. Another hidden garden is found at Museo Larreta, a museum in the Belgrano barrio showcasing Spanish art. Delve into the fascinating collection before immersing yourself in the aromatic Hispanic-Arabic garden, where tall palms, manicured hedges and trickling fountains create a lush oasis.
Image by Nuria Val Coke Bartrina
El Zanjon tunnels
We’re going underground for another of our favourite hidden gems in Buenos Aires. Beneath the oldest barrio in the city, San Telmo, is a network of secret tunnels. Now a museum, the mansion of El Zanjon de Granados holds the gateway to the fascinating world below. Wander the spacious, restored tunnels (which were once an elaborate drainage system) on a guided tour as you learn all about the city’s past. The archaeological site also incorporates the tunnels beneath Manzana de las luces (the block of enlightenment), originally a 17th-century Jesuit mission complex. It’s thought the tunnels here were built as an escape route for the Jesuits, who were not welcome in the city. You can join a free tour of this warren-like section of passages, which were discovered in 1912 and remain shrouded in mystery even today.
Las Cholas Parrilla
While in Argentina, it’d be a sin not to sample some of the country’s world-famous steak, and Buenos Aires is full of parrillas (steakhouses). Steak is taken seriously in the Argentine capital, but with so many options, it's easy to follow your nose on the tourist trail. Luckily, our Argentina Concierge is in the know of a well-kept secret spot: Las Cholas Parrilla in Palermo. A traditional steakhouse rarely frequented by tourists, sit among porteños (the city’s residents) on the shaded terrace and soak up the buzzing local atmosphere. Make sure you’re hungry and choose from cuts such as entraña (skirt), bife de chorizo (sirloin), vacio (flank) or lomo (tenderloin). The only question left is, do you want your steak jugoso (medium-rare) or cocido (well-done)?
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Image by Kevin Faingnaert
Written by Hannah Whitehall | Header image by Kevin Faingnaert
