Known as the ‘Cradle of the Renaissance’, Florence can be forgiven for resting on its laurels. A city of enchanting, cobbled streets and utterly irresistible architecture that hold equally mesmerising masterpieces from the likes of Botticelli and Bronzino, Florence is where high culture and hopeless romanticism met and married. A long lasting marriage it was to be too when UNESCO decided to wrap up the city in World Heritage status in 1982. The only snag of a powerhouse city like Florence though is that it’s easy to become overwhelmed. That’s why we’ve decided to uncover a couple of its secret sights that forgo its crowds and queues. Swap the Uffizi Gallery for the quieter (yet equally beautiful) San Marco Museum, bask in the salubrious scents and sights of the city’s best-kept secret garden, Torrigiani, and stop by Oltrarno, Florence’s fiercely independent borough, for a slice of dolce far niente. Here are our selection of hidden gems in Florence…
Oltrarno
‘Beyond the Arno’ on the city’s southern riverbank, life operates at a significantly slower pace. Palatial streets become old-world alleys sprinkled with bohemian botteghe (workshops), independent boutiques replace overpriced souvenir stalls and peaceful piazzas make way for killer views over the city’s crimson skyline. Clad with artisanal restaurants and trendy cafes too, it’s not surprising to learn that this quirky neighbourhood has been having a little renaissance of its own in recent years. Now car free, this hipster quarter is just the place to experience daily Florentine life. Pick up supplies at its daily market, stop at hole-in-the-wall gelaterias for a well-earned treat, marvel at fire-proof frescoes festooned to the ceilings of the hardy Brancacci Chapel and admire the view from the Piazzale Michelangelo. The climb up is totally worth it – promise.
San Marco Museum
The hidden gems in Florence come in all shapes and sizes. For the San Marco Museum, it comes in the form of a medieval Dominican friary. Unlike its busier and more well-known exhibitors, San Marco has avoided being descended on by hordes of camera-laden tourists. While we’re not quite sure how, since it houses the world’s largest collection of Beato Angelico’s works, we’re not complaining. Mosey between lofty halls filled with collections gifted from the Museum of Ancient Florence and the works of Fra Angelico, including his world-famous Annunciation painting. And, even if you’re not that artistically minded, the grounds themselves are sure to take your fancy. Built by Michelozzo, by appointment of the Medici patriarch Cosimo in the 12th century, it is still to this day an active monastery. Part of the museum tour even includes visits to the Cloister of St. Anthony, the Last Supper Hall, the Refectory and the Chapter Hall.
Parco delle Cascine
For a city slap bang in the middle of Italy’s calf, this hidden gem in Florence comes as a welcome reprieve to the city’s hot summer months. Running along the northern bank of the Arno, this open-air pool (known by locals as Le Pavoniere) acts as the perfect Renaissance re-charge. Hidden within Cascine Park’s shrubbery – which is designed to filter out any sounds above 20 decibels – this is the place to soak up Italy’s sun. Forget where you are with a good book and enjoy a couple of afternoon aperitifs before clinking glasses with locals and partying the night away at its historic villa-turned-restaurant with live music and DJ sets.
Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy
Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy may sound like a chemist but trust us, this is no Boots or Superdrug. In fact, it is the world’s oldest apothecary still in operation and the first place perfume (as we know it today) was ever spritzed. With vaulted ceilings, frescos and ornate stuccos, it’s no wonder this was the spot Catherine de Medici chose for her wedding scent - Acqua della Regina - to be designed. Founded in the 13th century by Dominican monks who believed in the healing qualities of herbs and perfumed waters, it is now a luxury store selling products quite literally fit for a queen. Breath in extra deep as you move from the Ancient Apothecary and Sacristy to the Tea Room, where you’ll be hard pressed to find anywhere more elegant to enjoy a fragrant brew.
The Torrigiani Garden
Florence may be known as the historic city, but there’s more to it than just extravagant architecture, museums and churches. There are also exquisite gardens and secret ones at that. Just a stone’s throw from the city’s unassuming 16th century walls lies its best-kept secret, the Torrigiani Garden. Set over 25 acres of Romantic English-style lawns, it is meticulously designed with vegetable gardens and ornate sculptures, winding shaded paths alongside canopies of ancient cypress and cedars and a spiralling neo-Gothic turret that towers over it all. But what really puts the gem in hidden gems in Florence in this charming garden are its beautifully restored greenhouses. Filled with plant species from all over the world, the Torrigiani family’s commitment to botany and mycology means that you can even take workshops in them to learn about their propagation and gardening style and turn them into canvas paintings. Seriously, how much more la dolce vita can it get?
