Dig out your diamante and don your most creative costume – it’s Mardi Gras. In the US, this colourful carnival can be traced back to 1699 when French coloniser Pierre Le Moyne d’Iberville landed near present-day New Orleans and held a small celebration. Today, Mardi Gras (also known as Carnival) is marked by masked balls, street parties and extravagant parades. If you’ve been seduced by this season’s festivities, floats and general fabulousness, we’ve got the lowdown on how to plan and perfect your Carnival experience. Read on for our guide to celebrating Mardi Gras in New Orleans.
When to Visit
Technically, the season of Mardi Gras starts on the 6th January and lasts until Fat Tuesday (otherwise known as Mardi Gras Day or Shrove Tuesday). However, if you’re looking to experience Mardi Gras at the height of festivities, plan to be in New Orleans during the week leading up to Fat Tuesday. This is when the biggest parades and celebrations happen, including Lundi Gras (Fat Monday) during which you can witness some Carnival key players arriving by boat, and enjoy live music and parades weaving through the streets. Because this is the peak time for Mardi Gras celebrations, it’s also the most popular time to visit the city. Booking well in advance is essential if you want to secure a spot in New Orleans during this period, as flights and hotels get fully booked up to a year in advance.
Preparing for Parades
Parades are the heart and soul of Mardi Gras in New Orleans, and the main parades are run by local social groups known as ‘krewes’. The biggest happen on the Saturday and Sunday before Fat Tuesday, while the most historic parades can be enjoyed on Lundi Gras and Fat Tuesday itself. Rest assured, though, that the city’s streets will be alive with colourful floats and processions every night in the week leading up to Mardi Gras Day. The main parades follow a set route through the city and are free for everyone to enjoy (check the official Mardi Gras website for details) but if you want a bit more of a relaxed experience, you can pay to view them from a balcony or grandstand. Many hotels, restaurants and bars have balconies for viewing the parades, but unsurprisingly, the luxury of having a bar and easily accessible toilets is very popular, so you’ll need to make sure to book these well in advance. Grandstands are another great option because they’re closer to the ground and offer prime parade viewing, so we recommend booking a grandstand spot for at least one parade. Of course, if you choose to enjoy the parades from the street, you have the advantage of being fully immersed in the joyful atmosphere. You’ll also have the best chance of catching some ‘throws’: trinkets, beads and toys thrown into the crowd from floats.
What to Wear to Mardi Gras
You might be wondering what on earth to wear to such a fun fantastical festival. The answers is: it’s Mardi Gras, anything goes! Glitter usually features heavily in Mardi Gras outfits, and costumes are essential if you’re interested in walking in a parade (it’s possible to join in with the smaller walking parades off the main route, the biggest of which is run by Society of Saint Anne). If you want to fit right in with the revellers, think feathers, sequins and the official Mardi Gras colours of purple, green and gold. One thing to remember when choosing your outfits is that Mardi Gras in New Orleans typically involves a lot of walking, so while you want to get creative, you also need to make sure your costume includes a pair of comfortable trainers or shoes. The weather at this time of year in Louisiana is changeable, so pack layers and prepare for sunny afternoons along with chillier mornings and evenings. Remember to bring a bag for storing your throws, especially if you’re travelling with little ones. If you’re lucky enough to get an invite to a Mardi Gras ball, the dress code will be specified on the invite, but it’s usually black tie or costume de rigueur (white tie).
Mardi Gras Indians
The essence of Mardi Gras is community and culture, nowhere more so than at the Mardi Gras Indians parades. These parades are organised by the African American communities of New Orleans, and their routes and timings are much more secretive than mainstream parades, though they’ll usually pass through the intersection between North Claiborne and Orleans avenues. Mardi Gras Indians, so-called to honour the Native American tribes who helped African Americans to escape slavery, wear elaborate costumes inspired by both Native American and West African dress, which typically cost thousands of dollars and take all year to make. The tradition of Mardi Gras Indians emerged when African Americans were excluded from mainstream carnival celebrations, and historically Mardi Gras was a day to settle scores in the community. Today, however, the parades are a display of art and creativity that weave through the city’s backstreets in style and splendour. When watching these events, remember to keep a respectful distance and take your cue from locals.
What Not to Miss
You can’t come to Mardi Gras in New Orleans without sampling a slice of colourful King Cake, a brioche-like bake traditionally served throughout Carnival. King Cakes usually have a small figurine of a baby hidden inside, which symbolises luck and prosperity for whoever finds it. Another Mardi Gras must is heading to Bourbon Street, one of the most famous streets in the French Quarter. Although none of the parades pass through here, this is the place where you can really get into the Carnival spirit by knocking back a few classic cocktails and enjoying the lively atmosphere. On the final day of festivities, this is the perfect place to round off your Mardi Gras experience.
