Stretching out to the North Sea from Gothenburg like a Pollock-style paint splash, Bohuslän, to put it simply, is West Sweden at its best. Characterised by rocky bluffs, craggy cliffs and islands peppered with striking Falun red boathouses, this 8,000-island-strong archipelago is where nature is encouraged to let loose. Skerries of Bohus granite – for which the islands get their name – radiate their orangey-pink hue, clusters of pine trees shade fjord-like lakes and glassy seas and shallow bays ripple and swirl as Scandinavian salmon and herring dart beneath. Supplying the area with a world renowned seafood smorgasbord and a storied maritime history that attracted even Beowulf, it feels as if there is only one way to see the region – by boat. Fortunately, Archipelago Select think so too. Now with a new boat, which runs completely on renewable energy, under their belts, the husband and wife team have launched a four-day private boat service between Gothenburg, Marstrand, Klädesholmen and Käringön. Stopping off along the way at boutique hotels, vibrant Bohuslän -inspired restaurants and scenic swim spots, Archipelago Select is where the journey almost matches the destination.
1
Marstrand
From Gothenburg, your eco-friendly boat – ‘Granit’ - will glide under the Älvsborgs Bridge and past the Älvsborg Fortress towards the archipelago. Relax and take in the tranquil atmosphere as you skirt past boats bobbing up against solitary jetties before disembarking at Bohuslän’s most westerly point, Marstrand. Spread across the islands of Koön and Marstrandsön, Marstrand has long been a favourite among Sweden’s elite. From King Oscar II’s grand summerhouse and the hulking Carlstens Fästning (fortress) to the Strandverket Art Museum, an unexpected outpost of contemporary art, Marstrand is a must for any budding historian or aesthete. If you’re after a dose of sleek and minimalist Scandinavian design, take the afternoon to browse its clothes boutiques and interior design shops, hidden down colourful alleyways.
2
Klädesholmen
The right way to start a day in Marstrand is with a refreshing dip in the sea. Thanks to its car-free roads and plethora of quaint fishing villages, linked by a series of well-marked trails, Marstrand has become a swimming and sailing haven. Swing by lean lighthouses and stop at numerous natural harbours for a final wild swim, before heading for a wild crab lunch at a locally loved haunt. After lunch, Archipelago Select will transport you to Klädesholmen, the island that lives, breathes and loves herring. Once settled in your floating – yes, floating – hotel, spend a few hours at the Sillebua (herring) museum, stroll along its streets of white-washed clapboard houses or squeeze down its narrow Komakaregatan (Shoemaker Street) and Fiskargränd (Fisherman’s Alley) to see where the island’s magic really happens. In the evening, you’ll be in for a treat with another tasty seafood dinner at the hotel’s swish restaurant.
3
Käringön
There is more to Klädesholmen than herring. In fact, the area is home to some of the best walking trails in the whole archipelago – and that’s saying something. Hop on over to Dyrön and Rönnäng for epic views over towards Pater Noster lighthouse, take a trip to the slight island of Åstol for a dose of picture-perfect Falun red boathouses or rent a couple of bikes for a short spin to Tjörn island’s sculpture park in Pilane. In the afternoon, prepare to be whisked past skerries and sunbathing seal colonies up the coast to Käringön, one of the archipelago’s most westerly points. Wild, barren and traffic-free, Käringön is well revered for its fresh sea air and relaxed atmosphere, which had the island declared a health resort in the 19th century. Hit up its lively pier, filled with small summer shops and restaurants offering distinctly Bohuslän cuisine. Or head out of town along the island’s series of narrow paths flanked by rugged rocks and islets to picturesque swimming coves and viewpoints. If you’re not quite ready to bid your sea legs adieu, then this is the place. Swim in deep rock lagoons – which you are almost guaranteed to be able to see the bottom of – and feel the island’s sense of calm and tranquillity wash over you as you relax on nearby rocks, looking out to the Shetland Islands and Scotland.
4
Gothenburg
Make time for one last Scandi swim in Käringön’s salubrious seas before enjoying breakfast on the hotel’s dock. After breakfast, step aboard ‘Granit’ for one last time. Take in views over to pretty Käringöfjord and admire the mighty archipelago as you stop for fika (a Swedish coffee and cake break) en route back to Gothenburg. This four day trip may be short, but it sure packs a punch.
Written by Naomi Pike
Header Image by Lisa Nestorson
